Faux Leather Padded Headboard
When we recently moved into a fixer upper, I knew I wanted to create a contemporary look in the guest room with a sizeable queen headboard. I’ve constructed headboards in the past but not one this big, and not one that hangs on the wall. Also, my previous headboards have all been fabric. This one is faux leather. You can create this same headboard for any size bed by following this tutorial. Just be sure to adjust the width and if desired, the height.
What kind of challenges might you face when creating a Queen-size padded headboard? Not as many as you might expect. I found this project a lot easier than I had anticipated. But here are the things you should keep in mind before approaching this project.
A) A queen-size bed measures 60” across. The headboard should be slightly wider so the headboard doesn’t look too narrow for the bed when it’s dressed in comforters or other coverings.
B) If you use plywood as your foundation as I did, can you transport a single piece of plywood in your vehicle? The height of my headboard is 48”. I wanted to be sure that when the project was finished I could move it higher or lower on the wall and not have a gap between the bottom of the headboard and the mattress. My finished headboard actually extends down to the bottom of the box springs. To achieve this, my plywood needed to be 62” x 48”. I don’t have a truck but I do have a Mini Cooper with two doors that open in the rear. At home depot, I had the 8’ x 48” (the original size) plywood cut into two 31” x 48” pieces which fit easily into the Mini. Home Depot will do the cut at no charge here at my local store.
C) How Strong are you? You will probably need help to lift the plywood once it is joined to form one complete piece and to hang it on the wall.
D) Being able to use an electric drill and heavy-duty stapler will help you to complete this headboard without a lot of stress.
E) Are your walls straight? I found out mine aren’t. The”cleat” hanging system allows the headboard to nearly hug a straight wall. If the wall is slightly off, there will be a small variance. One side of my headboard is flush to the wall while the other side is about .25” away. This is not a problem as the difference is too slight to be obvious or look awful.
If you need more ideas Google DIY headboards. You will find that some instructions suggest using a spray adhesive to stick the foam to the plywood or the faux leather to the foam. I’ve used adhesive before for smaller projects but I didn’t feel it was necessary for this one. In my opinion, the rough texture of the foam against the rough plywood would not present a threat of one shifting or wrinkling on the other. The same goes for the wrong side of the faux leather against the foam.
step 12 - The Faux Leather – Sew together three panels with right sides together. Two pieces should measure 23.25” x 56” and one piece should measure 23.75” x 56”. These measurements allow for .50” seams and extra fabric for wrapping around the puffy foam and batting.
step 19 - Continue stapling from the centers to each corner distributing the fabric evenly. Trim and feed fabric to maintain smooth corner angles.
I bought a new TruTac staple gun for this project and absolutely love it. It’s very gentle on the hands because of the design. With just one hand you squeeze the gun on the front where the staples are dispensed. Other guns have to be squeezed on the back sometimes requiring a second hand to press down on the front.
The 2” thick egg crate foam came from Target online. It was the most inexpensive I found and I worried it might not create the substantial look I wanted but it was just right and I’m very happy with the result.
Hangman Picture Hanging System 18”
TruTac Staple gun
Full bed Enhance 2” egg crate foam 73” x 52”
Faux leather 68” x 56”
Medium weight batting 68” x 56”