Easy Carry iPad Case

Finished Size 10” x 11” x 3”
 

Here’s a sewing project that looks equally chic with or without the painted tendrils.  You may prefer a plain case for your iPad but I can’t resist throwing paint at any blank canvas.  An interesting thing to note about this case is the horizontal seam 1/3 of the way from the top.  My original design didn’t include a seam at all.  It was meant to look more like this Photoshop enhanced version to the right with one complete vinyl piece top to bottom, which I think has a really sleek look.  But I made a mistake in measuring and had to add the piece to save the project.  These instructions are written for the original design with the correct measurements and no seam.  The top of the case is lined with heavy mat board making it sturdy for carrying.  With or without flowers or an unplanned seam, this iPad case is easy to make, easy to carry and easy on the eyes!

DURING PAINTING, COVER EXPOSED FABRIC TO PREVENT ACCIDENTAL OVER SPRAY.

All seam allowances are .50"

Directions

step 1 - Download the pdf instructions.  Print one of the fabric pattern and two of the cardboard pattern.

step 1 - Download the pdf instructions.  Print one of the fabric pattern and two of the cardboard pattern.

step 2 - Cut two vinyl pieces to measure 11.25” x 11.25”; one for the front and one for the back.  Cut two vinyl pieces to measure 11.25” x 4.50” for the facings.  Cut two mat board or stiff cardboard pieces to measure 9.75” x 3.75” for the handle support.

step 3 - Apply adhesive to the back side of the stencil.  Apply it sticky side down to the front vinyl piece so that the floral design begins about 4.75” from the top of the piece. 

step 3 - Apply adhesive to the back side of the stencil.  Apply it sticky side down to the front vinyl piece so that the floral design begins about 4.75” from the top of the piece. 

step 4A - Airbrush the stencil with copper paint followed by a thin mist of black paint if desired.

step 4A - Airbrush the stencil with copper paint followed by a thin mist of black paint if desired.

step 4B - As you can see comparing 4A and 4B, the copper paint alone is more brassy and orange while a thin spray of black on top allows the color and shine to come through but tones it down a bit.  When the front is dry, airbrush the back piece.

step 4B - As you can see comparing 4A and 4B, the copper paint alone is more brassy and orange while a thin spray of black on top allows the color and shine to come through but tones it down a bit.  When the front is dry, airbrush the back piece.

step 5 - Trace the fabric pattern twice onto white transparent gift wrap tissue paper.  Include both the stitch line and the cut line and be sure to mark the centerline.  The pattern pieces should have a generous border, at least 2” or more. 

step 5 - Trace the fabric pattern twice onto white transparent gift wrap tissue paper.  Include both the stitch line and the cut line and be sure to mark the centerline.  The pattern pieces should have a generous border, at least 2” or more. 

step 6 - On the vinyl’s wrong side, roughly draw the outside edges of the pattern’s stitching line to determine it’s placement.  The pattern’s stitching line should be placed 1.75” from the top edge of the vinyl with the centers aligned.  Cover the marked area with fusible hem tape strips.  Place the vinyl facing down with the top and side edges aligned to the front piece. 

step 6 - On the vinyl’s wrong side, roughly draw the outside edges of the pattern’s stitching line to determine it’s placement.  The pattern’s stitching line should be placed 1.75” from the top edge of the vinyl with the centers aligned.  Cover the marked area with fusible hem tape strips.  Place the vinyl facing down with the top and side edges aligned to the front piece. 

step 7 - Iron a scrap of your vinyl to see how much heat it can withstand without being damaged.  Cover the vinyl front and facing with a pressing cloth and iron only until the two vinyl pieces bond.  Flip the piece over and use disappearing ink to draw a vertical line down the center of the front piece about 4”. 

step 7 - Iron a scrap of your vinyl to see how much heat it can withstand without being damaged.  Cover the vinyl front and facing with a pressing cloth and iron only until the two vinyl pieces bond.  Flip the piece over and use disappearing ink to draw a vertical line down the center of the front piece about 4”. 

step 8 - Place a tissue pattern on the right side of the front vinyl piece aligning the center lines and positioning the stitch line of the pattern 1.75” from the top edge of the vinyl.  Tape the tissue borders to the vinyl with painters tape.

step 8 - Place a tissue pattern on the right side of the front vinyl piece aligning the center lines and positioning the stitch line of the pattern 1.75” from the top edge of the vinyl.  Tape the tissue borders to the vinyl with painters tape.

step 9 - Using copper colored thread, sew the stitching line through the tissue pattern.  Slash through the center with a craft knife and cut with scissors on the cutting line.  Pull away the tissue.  If bits remain an old toothbrush or pressing on them with scotch tape will easily dislodge them.

step 9 - Using copper colored thread, sew the stitching line through the tissue pattern.  Slash through the center with a craft knife and cut with scissors on the cutting line.  Pull away the tissue.  If bits remain an old toothbrush or pressing on them with scotch tape will easily dislodge them.

step 10 - Prepare the back vinyl piece by following steps #6 through #9.

step 11 - Using a glue stick, attach a pattern piece to the cardboard.  Cut out the hole shape with a craft knife.  Do the same with the second cardboard piece. 

step 11 - Using a glue stick, attach a pattern piece to the cardboard.  Cut out the hole shape with a craft knife.  Do the same with the second cardboard piece. 

step 12 - Lay the cardboard on the wrong side of the vinyl and pull the facing through the hole in the cardboard.  Insert Aleene’s Peel n Stick Fabric Fusionsheets between the cardboard and the vinyl pieces to bond them.  Place the sheets at least .75” away from edges of vinyl where you will be sewing.

step 12 - Lay the cardboard on the wrong side of the vinyl and pull the facing through the hole in the cardboard.  Insert Aleene’s Peel n Stick Fabric Fusionsheets between the cardboard and the vinyl pieces to bond them.  Place the sheets at least .75” away from edges of vinyl where you will be sewing.

step 13 - Sew the facing to the top front with a .50” seam allowance.  Sew the top back the same way.  Trim both seams to 1/8”.

step 14 - Tape the side seams together and stitch through all layers sewing top to bottom.  Trim seams to 1/8”.  

step 15 - Sew across the bottom edge of the case and trim to 1/8”.

Tip

When sewing across vinyl, cover the fabric with gift wrap tissue paper so it will glide smoothly under the presser foot.

A roller cutter is an ideal way to trim the seams on this project because cutting can be done with one long smooth movement and no jagged edges.

Thick cardboard is not suitable for this project as its edges will be visible under the vinyl.


Supplies

At Testors.com

  •  Aztek airbrush
  •  9473 Copper Paint
  •  9441 Black Paint
  •  Aztek airbrush

At Craft Store or Amazon

  •  masking tape
  •  card stock
  •  matt board or cardboard
  •  Scotch Spray Mount Repositonable Adhesive
  •  Martha Stewart Tendrils Stencil
  •  fusible hem tape
  •  Aleene’s peel and stick sheets
  •  Disappearing ink
  •  Gift wrap tissue paper

 At Fabric Store

  •  12” flannel backed vinyl at least 45” wide
  •  thread & sewing notions

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