DIRECTIONS
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1.Determine the point where you want the shirring to stop on your body. It should be half way between your waist and the bottom of your bra. Measure from your shoulder to that point and make a note of this number. This will be the “shirr length”. Also measure around your chest at this line. Add 2 inches then divide that total number by 4. This will be the “new width” of the front and the back pattern at the last shirred row.
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2.Trace the front and back pieces of your favorite “for knits only” top pattern, then put away the original pattern. You will be working with the copy.
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3.Adjust your pattern by measuring from the shoulder line down to the “shirr length” and cutting away the excess pattern.
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4.Measure from the center fold line and mark the new width. Cut a diagonal line on the side seam from the armhole to that mark. Do this on both the front and back pattern pieces.
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5.Set aside pattern pieces. Cut two identical pieces of fabric to the length you want your dress. Be sure to include a hem allowance.
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6.To determine the width of these pieces, measure your pattern at its widest point which would be the bust. Multiply that number by 4. (Your pattern piece will be approximately 9” if your bust measures 36”). The dress front and back fabric should both be cut to that width, 36” for each piece.
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7.Mark the “shirr length” on the fabric with painters tape if the tape won’t cause damage when removed. Be sure you have a straight edge on the fabric before you measure.
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8.Begin the first row of shirring next to the tape line by back stitching to ensure the elastic won’t pull out. Move the needle to the far right position. At the end of the row, rotate your fabric in the opposite direction. Do not cut the threads. Pull out only the thread you need to free up and reposition the fabric for the next row of shirring. This will save you a lot of elastic and needless work. To create the next row 1/2” away, using your presser foot as a guide and moving the needle to the left side. At the end of each row, rotate the fabric and change the needle position. Continue until you have the necessary number of rows to reach your “shirr length”. Shirr the second fabric piece.
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Fold and pin the shirred fabric in half lengthwise and lay it on your work surface.
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9. Position the front pattern over the shirred fabric matching the bottom of the piece to the last row of shirring. Trace the pattern piece using a marker. The lines will be gone when you trim your seam allowances so use any color you wish.
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10.The blue line in the illustration to the right represents the cutting line for the pattern piece. The red line represents the sewing line which is 5/8” inside the cutting line. Place a drop of glue on each row of shirring (pink dots) in the margin between the blue and red line and let dry thoroughly. Sew fabric pieces together at shoulder and side seams. The glue will be just outside the stitching. When you cut away excess seam allowances be sure that you don’t cut away the glue. Reapply and let dry if you do. Sew side seams all the way down to the hem.
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11.Finish your dress to suit you. We chose to add short sleeves and attach ribbing to the neckline.
