fagotted-blouse

DIRECTIONS

1.COPY THE NECKLINE - Slip tissue paper into the shirt and trace the neckline, front and back.
2.CREATE A PATTERN - Use the tissue to create a pattern out of interfacing that shows where the neckband should meet the fagotting, and where the fagotting should meet the existing shirt neckline. The fagotting space can be as wide as you choose. Ours is 3/4”. Mark a seam allowance line below the existing neckline.
3.DUPLICATE PATTERN - Trace the interfacing markings onto some scrap fabric creating a second pattern. Set the interfacing aside. On the scrap, add seam allowances for the neck band. Cut the band away from the rest of the scrap.
4.CUT SHIRT FABRIC PIECES - Use the scrap neckband piece to cut out two neckbands from your shirt material. One will be used as a facing later.
5.ASSEMBLE NECK BAND - Sew the front and back shirt neckbands together at the shoulders. Press open seams. Pin under the seam allowance for the bottom edge. Press in place and baste by machine or hand.
6.CREATE NECKLINE FACING - Using the scrap pattern that shows the existing neckline with seam allowance, cut a facing for this edge from the shirt fabric. Sew the front and back facings at the shoulders. Press open seams. Sew the facing to the shirt at the neckline. Press the seam flat with wrong sides together and topstitch 1/2” from the edge.
7.ATTACH NECKLINE TO PATTERN - Place the interfacing pattern inside the shirt, aligning the shirt neckline with the seam allowance line on the interfacing. Pin in place, then baste.
8.ATTACH NECKBAND TO PATTERN - Place the neckband in position, aligning it to the interfacing markings. Pin together then baste. You can now see how your finished shirt will look. The space between the neck band and the shirt is where you will create the fagotting.
9.Place several marks equal distance apart on an index card. Or use the lines already printed on the card if the distance will work for your project.
10.Thread about a yard of embroidery floss into a needle and knot one end. Line up the card with the edge of your work area and use it as a guide for stitch placement, moving it along as you work. Insert the needle at the shirt neckline (1) and pull it through. Add a bead (2), then push the needle into the neckband edge at the next line of the card (3) and go through the fabric back to the first line (4) and pull it out. Put the needle through the same bead (5), then into the neckline (6).
11.Repeat these steps around the entire neckline.

Fagotting

When two fabrics are brought together with open stitches, usually in a crisscross style, this is called fagotting. There are other stitch styles that can be incorporated in fagotting as well as additional elements. We chose to incorporate beads into our very open weave fagotting. Our mission was to save our shirt which had a neckline that was too wide. We had just enough extra fabric for a new, closer neckline which allowed us to rescue this top from the trash bin!

What You’ll Need

•sewing notions
•shirt + extra fabric
•interfacing
•scrap fabric
•beads
•embroidery floss

All Materials Are available at JoAnn’s

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GUEST DIVA

Adriana Orozco is a multi talented seamstress and designer who creates clothing with detailing unlike anyone else. She posts on the Burda website where you can see many of her exquisite gowns and her instructions for fagotted shirts. Her work inspired us to try a fagotted shirt of our own. You’ll find it below along with the steps we took to complete it.

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step 8

12.Once the fagotting is complete, remove all the basting and the interfacing pattern.
13.Sew the facing onto the upper neckband. Turn to the inside. Fold under a slightly larger seam allowance on the facing’s bottom edge. Press or baste to hold in place. Using hand stitching, attach the bottom edge of the neckband facing to the bottom of the neckband.